Planes, Trains, Automobiles, and a Boat

Wed, October 5

Today our journey began as we flew from Minneapolis to Paris arriving at CDG at 7:30 a.m. on Oct 6.

Thurs, Oct 6

We picked up our Hertz rental car, always an arduous process, and made our way out of Paris. We selected a manual transmission car which added an additional layer of challenge and enjoyment to the entire trip, including as we drove out of the CDG airport. We made our way to Monet’s gardens located in Giverny. The town, the Monet compound, and the gardens did not disappoint.

We next drove from Giverny to Manoir de Hérouville, where we would spend the next three nights. The drive was easy and scenic, although as my wife and I had already travelled about 18 hours by the time we arrived at Giverny, a 20-minute roadside nap was necessary to remain alert for the duration of the drive. My family had stayed at the Manoir de Hérouville 14-years ago, so we were very excited to return to this beautiful property. It was exactly as we recalled it, and we even stayed in the same room as in 2008. Although the property was largely unchanged, ownership had changed back in 2013. The new owner, Catherine, had left her career in event planning and had followed her dream of owning and running a bed-and-breakfast. As in 2008, the breakfasts were excellent and the discussions with Catherine were engaging.

Fri, Oct 7

Today we drove to Mere Saint Eglise to go on a D-Day/Normandy Tour through D-Day Battle Tours. This was the tour company we used in 2008, although we had a different guide on this trip (Monica instead of Elwood) as well as a slightly different focus (more discussion re: the paratrooper landings and strategy and less on the beach landings). The tour included the following sites:

• Saint Mere Eglise Church and square
• Utah Beach
• Point du Hoc
• Omaha Beach
• Colleville American Cemetery (we even got to see the flags lowered at the end of the day)
• La Cambe German Cemetery

After the tour, we drove back to the Manoir with a brief stop for dinner at Chez Louisette in Le Molay-Littry. While the food at Chez Louisette was much simpler (e.g., burgers, sandwiches) than we had been eating, it was a welcome change. The server was spicy enough for this dinner adventure (she disagreed with what I wanted to order and told me to have a smaller version. I must admit, she was right!).

Sat, Oct 8

Today we drove to Mont Saint Michel. It was an easy drive, although our various map applications again took us on some very interesting ”discovery” routes. Instead of taking the tram from the parking lots to the attraction, we chose to walk along the road leading to the site. Thankfully, the number of tourists was quite light which made exploration easier. Before our scheduled tour of the Abbey, we ate lunch at one of the restaurants overlooking the estuary surrounding Mont Saint Michel. The Abbey is a historical monument with an interesting history, both religious and military.

We returned to the Manoir looking forward to the next day, a travel day!

Sun, Oct 9

Today we bade goodbye to Catherine and headed south to the Loire Valley area. We began by exploring Tourouvre, the ancestral village of my wife. We started at the Museum of French Emigration in Canada, where we gathered more information about her ancestors than we had previously found back in 2008, including the location of the house in which her ancestors had lived. We next drove to and toured the chateau and gardens of Villandry, the site of (according to Rick Steves) “the Loire’s best gardens.”

We next drove to our lodging for the night, Le Gaimont, located in Vouvray. The Le Gaimont estate is a small wine-growing castle carved from tufa, a variety of limestone. Our host, Elisa, was friendly, warm, and informative. After we ate at a local Italian restaurant, we returned to Le Gaimont to enjoy a bottle of Vouvray wine, my wife’s favorite, while lounging in the spacious living room Elisa made available to us.

Mon, Oct 10

On Monday we first explored the Loire Valley chateaus and gardens by stopping at  Chateau de Chenonceau, a 16^th century Renaissance palace gracefully arched over the Cher River. This is one of the most visited chateaus in France, in part due to its interesting history.

We then drove to the Limousin region of France, an area famous for its agriculture and ceramics. We stayed at Moulin Giraud, a lovely Airbnb property located in Saint-Léonard-de-Noblat, just 30 minutes east of Limoges. The property featured a beautiful farm-style kitchen where we made our own meat/cheese tray for dinner with food from a local market and sampled some local wine. The property also has a large deck overlooking its spacious riverside property.

Tues, Oct 11

This morning provided an example of the uncertainties of travel. Just as we were preparing to leave Moulin Giraud, we heard sounds from the nearby road to which our driveway connected. Apparently the local governing body decided to install some channels to divert rain water from the road, blocking our exit. So, we returned to the deck to enjoy the view to wait out our brief delay. Once on our way, we headed towards Montignac, home of the famous Lascaux Cave museum and reproduction.

We then headed toward our days’ destination of La Roque-Gageac, a perennial contender for “cutest town in France.”

We spent our two nights at La Roque-Gageac at  Manoir de la Malartrie, a beautiful bed-and-breakfast hosted by Wafa, a Moroccan woman (formerly an attorney specializing in international transactions) who was simply unstoppable motion.

For dinner we ate at a restaurant recommended by Wafa: La Belle Étoile. The food was classic French dining and the service was excellent. They even had vin de noix available as an aperitif!

Wed, Oct 12

Today we began with Wafa’s excellent breakfast buffet. We then explored the area including following:

• Old town Sarlat-la-Caneda, including its well-known farmer’s market. The market contained those goods you find at a market in Southern France, including foie gras (in many forms), cheese, and walnut goods. The historic town of Sarlat, so characteristic of the Périgord region, is famous for its magnificent architectural heritage of honey-colored limestone and attractive inner courtyards. It was a delight to wander around its streets and passages in the heart of the beautifully preserved medieval and Renaissance city.

• The Dordogne Valley in the south of the Périgord noir is home to magnificent villages, imposing castles and lush gardens, such as Beynac-et-Cazenac, which boasts a charming location with a castle perched on the cliff above the village, and the remarkable hanging gardens of Marqueyssac overlooking the valley.

Thurs, Oct 13

Today we drove from La Roque-Gageac to Villeneuve, where we were to stay two nights at the Airbnb property, La Maison des Pèlerins.  On the day’s journey, we explored:

• Chateau de Castelnaud. From this beautiful castle’s website: ”Built on a rocky outcrop in the heart of the Périgord Noir, Castelnaud Castle offers a magnificent panoramic view over the Dordogne Valley. Built in the 12^th century, it is a perfect example of a medieval fortress. Today, the castle houses a large collection of weapons and armour. Along the bastion, the most powerful siege engines from the Middle Ages have been recreated and placed in attack positions.” This site, being a combination of beautiful structure and military museum, was well worth the price of admission.

• The old royal fortified bastide village of Domme, which occupies an idyllic site with magnificent views of the Dordogne River. In Domme we found a local market underway, several small craft shops, and a jewelry store comprised of many creations of the proprietor. Enough of the artisan’s work attracted our eyes that we left with our wallets a little lighter and our shopping bags a little heavier! I encourage you to check out Charles Duret’s shop online.

• The Pech-Merle Caves. Situated in a secluded wooded environment, the stunning Pech-Merle Caves are as rich in wall paintings as they are in natural concretions. In an enchanting setting of stalactites, fistulous concretions and helictites, visitors can admire works of art, some of which were created 30,000 years ago, including bison and mammoths drawn with black lines, a bear’s head engraved in the stone, outlines of horses and “negative hands” painted using the stencil method. This is one of the finest collections of rock art in the world. The tour through the caves was done primarily in French, with some commentary in English (e.g., “watch your head”). It was no problem, however, understanding the point of the various stops on the tour.

After our arrival in Villeneuve, we walked down the road a short distance to a local pizza place. While the restaurant did a great carry-out business, we were the only people eating in the restaurant! The food was good, however, and the wine was appropriately chilled.

Fri, Oct 14

Today my wife and I explored Villeneuve on foot, while our travel companions took the car and drove to Najac to explore the medieval village. In Villeneuve we purchased goods from the local bakery for breakfast, and ate at a local cafe for lunch.

For dinner we made reservations at Art & Galets restaurant smoke house/ BBQ. This small eatery, run by a local couple, is a great example of gastronomic artistry that can be created by someone doing what they love. The proprietor makes all of the barbecued and smoked meats onsite, and even took the time to show us some of the briskets he was preparing. The French onion soup was wonderful, as was the French version of poutine which included smoked meat on top of the french fries (“not like the Canadian kind”, according to the chef).

Sat, Oct 15

Today we drove from Villeneuve to Beziers to return the rental car. After checking into our hotel (the Hotel Particuler) we walked around the city to explore the sites. For dinner we ate at the Osakaya Japanese Restaurant. The service at the restaurant was excellent, and it seemed like every server wanted to practice their English (or perhaps wanted to hear us butcher their language). The food was excellent, from the soup, to the sushi, to the desserts. A definite high point of our brief stay in Beziers.

Sun, Oct 16

 As we didn’t get picked up for our criuse until 4 p.m., we spent the morning and early afternoon further exploring the town, including the Midi Canal and locks.

Then, at 4 p.m. we were picked up and taken to Marseillan, where we boarded our home for the next 6 days: the barge Athos. We received the traditional champagne welcome and crew introduction before we retreated to our berths to unpack. We then sat down to a wonderful meal prepared by the chef, Emma.

Mon, Oct 17

This morning we left the ship and walked a short distance to a tour of the Noilly Prat distillery. The tour revealed the many secrets of making French vermouth, and was followed by a private spirits tasting in their lounge. In the United States vermouth is usually part of a mixed drink. In Europe, however, it is often served by itself, or simply mixed with tonic water or a sparkling water with a twist of lemon rind. We walked away with a new appreciation for vermouth and some new ideas for refreshing summer drinks at the lake.

We then went back to the barge for lunch and to cast off for our first cruise. which took us through the open waters of the Etang de Thau, and then into the Petite Camargue, which is a haven for fish, fowl, and other wildlife.

After mooring for the day, we took a short bike ride to the white sands of the Mediterranean beaches. It was very windy, but still a fun experience. Back onboard, as with every night, Chef Emma crafted a wonderful gourmet dinner. The dinners were always four courses: an appetizer, a main dish, cheese, and a dessert. All the while, of course, we were enjoying two wines; one for the appetizer and one for the main course. Dinner typically began and 7:30 p.m. and concluded at 9:30 – 10:00 p.m.  

Tues, Oct 18 

This morning, as with nearly every morning, we began with breakfast ay 8 a.m., and a tour at 9 a.m. Today, our guide Mathieu, escorted us to Pezenas, a town of art and history. The city’s historic center has become a well–established bohemian haven of craft shops, lively cafes, and specialty boutiques.

In the afternoon we cruised further up the Canal Midi but, due to a nationwide strike, our journey stopped prematurely in Beziers. Being adept at adaptation, Mathieu had arranged a tour of a local craft brewery. The information we received, as well as the beer, was wonderful. We then returned to the barge for another great meal.

Wed, Oct 19 

This morning began with a visit to Narbonne, a regional capital established in 118 B.C.E. as a Roman colony. A study of European history and local modernity thriving side by side, Roman ruins are reverentially presented in public spaces, while the lively Narbonne market reflects the region’s gastronomic bounty.

After lunch at the indoor market, we returned to the barge for an afternoon cruise. This afternoon, we experienced a cruise high point as Athos moved onto an 18th century canal bridge over the Orb River, and then negotiated a 17th century staircase of locks to her mooring for the evening.

Thurs, Oct 20 

Today’s epicurean explorations began at “L’Oulibo“, the local olive pressoir. We enjoyed a private tasting of small batch olive oil before browsing the onsite gourmet boutique. We then drove up the Gorge de la Cesse and into the hilltop village of Minerve. This small town has only a few dozen residents but remains a popular tourist destination in the summer.

We then returned to the barge to relax with a good book and to discover the flora and fauna along the towpath. Tonight we moored in Capestang.

Fri, Oct 21 

This morning, Mathieu drove us to Carcassonne, a Medieval fortress with a walled city. We explored the ancient castle and preserved ramparts to admire the mighty 53 Roman towers. We also strolled the cobblestone boulevards into local cafes and specialty boutiques. Can you believe how few people were there on the day of our visit!? It was also an unusually clear day. So much so that we could see the Pyrenees Mountains in the distance!

We then returned to the barge to laze on deck and enjoy this most beautiful section of the canal. 

In the meantime, Chef Emma preparedi a special Captain’s Dinner, a celebration of our week on the Canal du Midi.

Sat, Oct 22 

Today we disembarked from the Athos and said goodbye to the amazing crew. We returned to the Beziers train station to take our four hour train ride back to Paris. Upon arriving in Paris, we transferred to our beautiful Airbnb property, our home for the next three nights. We then headed out to explore and to find the quintessential dish that had thus far eluded me on the trip: Cassoulet.

Sun, Oct 23

Today we ate breakfast from a local bakery and explored the Marais neighborhood around us. We also toured Sainte Chapelle and the Conciergerie.

Mon, Oct 24

Today we got tickets for L’Ateier des Lumieres, an immersive display of the work of selected artists. During our visit the exhibits included Cezanne and Kandinsky. The experience was stunning and I would definitely go to this type of exhibit again! We ate lunch at a small cafe in the Tuileries Garden. Because our tickets for the Musee de l’Orangerie were for mid-afternoon, we took a stroll to get a few pictures.

The museum turned out to be quite crowded, as was all of Paris during our visit. While the Monet exhibit was interesting, I enjoyed the exhibit of the work of Sam Szafran just as much. After our tour we wandered back to the apartment to rest and pack before our 8 p.m. dinner with a France-based junior high school friend of my wife. The restaurant we selected was Le Caveau de L’Isle, located on Ile Saint-Louis, one of my favorite areas for dining when visiting Paris. This small, 10 or so table restaurant has great food, good atmosphere, and excellent service. My meal was the best duck confit I had eaten on the entire trip (and I had eaten many such meals over the preceding weeks). What a great ending to an unforgettable journey!

Tues, Oct 25

This morning we got up bright and early for our 10:40 a.m. flight home. While there was a slight delay taking off, all-in-all things went well.

And then, once again, COVID hit. While I had contracted COVID during our earlier trip to Sweden, this time my wife contracted the virus. But, due to vaccination, her symptoms were relatively mild.

Reflections

In summary, this was a fabulous trip. Due to the season and the strength of the dollar, we enjoyed great, lodging, meals, and experiences at reasonable prices. Further, everything went as planned. While it was probably one of the most complex trips I had ever planned, things just worked.

I think of the trip as having three phases: (1) the driving portion; (2) the canal boat portion; and (3) Paris. The driving portion had the greatest probability of problems arising. But, despite driving 1,254 miles in a car with a manual transmission, including in some challenging areas such as around Charles de Gaulle airport, we experienced no significant issues. I attribute our driving success to the skill of the navigators, my wife and Ron, who helped figure out the quirks of the driving apps on my phone and who found restaurants and gas while on the move. Driving in a foreign county can be frustrating. It can also be a great deal of fun. There were periodic references to me driving “in James Bond mode” as we navigated curves and rural country roads.

The ability to enjoy a trip such as this hinges, in large part, on your traveling companions. First of all, I appreciate my wife’s patience and willingness to ”go with the flow” as things are often fluid on a day-to-day basis. In addition, my wife and I were fortunate to enjoy the company of our close friends Ron and Jan, with whom we have traveled many places over the years (i.e., Greece, Italy, Hawaii, Maine, and Southeast Asia). Their patience with our (my?) idiosyncrasies cannot be overstated and is greatly appreciated. Ron’s knowledge of the history in this area was very helpful to understanding what we were seeing. And, Jan’s ability to crochet while riding in a car and sightseeing is amazing to me. Her gesture of creating multiple crocheted dishrags for each of the barge crew members and guests was very kind and wildly appreciated. My wife and I, of course, will never forget the meals, sites, and bottles of wine we shared with Ron and Jan! We are blessed to have them as friends….

Finally, we thoroughly enjoyed the people with whom we interacted on the trip. The people of France are currently experiencing higher-than-normal prices for food and for gasoline (and, sometimes, shortages). Despite these challenges, they were friendly, patient, and understanding of our feeble attempts to speak French.

We still have much to see in France, so we will be back! : )