This blog entry describes, on a day-by-day basis, our recent 31-day visit to Costa Rica! But, for those of you who just want the basics, here’s an executive summary.
- We stayed three nights at Nayara Springs resort near the Arenal volcano. This is in the rainforest so is much greener than along the Pacific coast which was then in its dry season. We next stayed 28 nights at Bahia Pez Vela, a resort south of Playas del Coco, a small town on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. Our lodging at both locations was exactly what wanted for each part of the trip.
- Three sets of couples joined us: R & J, R2 & J2, and B & K. For purposes of their privacy their names are not used in the blog. We thoroughly enjoyed their visits as we enjoyed together fellowship, food, and card/dice games!
- We did not rent a car as they are very expensive in Costa Rica. Instead, we had nearly a dozen tours lined up, all of which included transportation, and taxis were available if we wanted to go somewhere.
- We ate a lot of food at a lot of good restaurants. The Maracuya Beach Club (“Maracuya”; Maracuya means Passion Fruit) located at the resort was the best of all of them. Consequently, and because of its convenience, we ate at Maracuya more than 20 times. We periodically ate in the villa, usually breakfast.
- The tours we took were fantastic, both in the Arenal area and from Bahia Pez Villa (thank you Shaman Tours)! We experienced unique animals, plants, topography, micro-climates, and food. We also got to swim in volcano heated pools, swim in a blue river tinted by minerals from the volcano, and take a mud bath!
So much for the summary. Now for the agonizing detail, Internet links, and pictures!
Sunday, February 12
Flew out early from MSP (7:54 a.m. departure). Flight was fairly smooth. Arrived at Liberia, Costa Rica (LIR) a little bit early. Met our driver (Miguel) who drove us approximately 2.75 hours to Nayara Springs (NS). The first 1/2 of the drive is fairly flat and straight. Then, you hit the mountains where the wind generators are found. In the midst of the mountains is Lake Arenal, a 19 mile long and approx 3 mile wide man-made lake (the biggest in Central America). The lake is utilized to create hydroelectric power for the country, and creates from 15 – 30 percent of the country’s energy, depending on who is telling you about the lake.
Upon arrival at NS at approximately 4:30 p.m., we went through a check-in process and were then whisked away to Villa 35, our home for the next 3 nights. The villa was beautiful, well-appointed, and spacious. Breakfast, yoga, and most things in the mini bar were complimentary. This night we had a 6:30 dinner reservation at the onsite Italian restaurant Mis Amore. The food was very good. P ordered a table pasta which involved the preparation of the dish in a large cheese wheel using a blowtorch, a massive spoon, and previously cooked pasta! We then went back to the room to enjoy the private deck with an infinity whirlpool.
Monday, February 13
We began our day with breakfast delivered to our room. We then met our tour guide at the reception area for a 1/2 day hanging bridge tour at Mistico Park. This tour involved a several hour walk through the rainforest on paths, fixed bridges, and 6 hanging bridges. The hanging bridges varied in height and length, but each was a cable suspension bridge with an aluminum walkway, chain link sides, and cables for suspension. Some were as long as several hundred meters and 30+ meters above the valley floor. We were shown several examples of snakes, birds, and insects, as well as of trees and plants. Our tour guide was a young man named Gustavo, a birder who expressed a keen interest in one day spotting the Great Grey Owl in Minnesota. We exchanged contact information in the event he is able to get a visit to visit the US and does, in fact, make his way to Minnesota. At the conclusion of the tour, we ate lunch with our guide and driver in the picnic area of the park. The lunches had been prepared by the NS kitchens, and included sandwiches and, in my case, a Nordic bagel with Smoked Trout.
After our tour we returned to our villa to enjoy the whirlpool and to rest. We later ventured out to explore the resort a little bit. At 5:30 we then returned to the reception area where we met David, our guide for a Night Walk Tour, which involved walking through the rainforest with flashlights to spot frogs, insects, and whatever else we might stumble upon. During this 2 hour journey we saw the famous red-eyed tree frog, several other species of frogs, several insects, and many impressive spiders. After the walk we returned to NS for our dinner at the onsite restaurant Amor Loco, a plush lounge with dark wood furniture and velvety cushions and chairs. There was live music performed by a single musician, and the frogs were chirping merrily. The food was, once again, very good and the service was top-notch.
Tuesday, February 14
Today we booked no tours until early afternoon. Our breakfast was delivered at 10:30, and consisted of an omelette, Nordic Bagle, fresh bread, fruit and juices. We met our tour guide at 1:55 p.m. in the reception area. Melanie, a 27 year old native Costa Rican, first took us to a harbor on Lake Arsenal for a brief boat ride, during which we discovered wildlife long the shore of the lake (e.g., herons, Cormorants) and enjoyed beautiful scenery of the rainforest and the Arenal Volcano, an active volcano that experienced its last major eruption in 1968.
After the boat ride we traveled in our van to a private park that provides hiking trails at the base of the volcano, including walking over some of the lava flows from the 1968 eruption. We chose the trail of nearly 2 miles in length, which took almost 2 hours to complete. The trail is the closest you can legally get to the volcano, and provided some great views of the volcano, the lake and the surrounding rainforest. Melanie provided us with a great deal of information related to the history of the volcano, the property on which the park sits (which was devastated by the volcano’s eruption), and the flora and fauna found within the park. Her description of the leaf-cutting ants and their nest was particularly interesting.
After our tour we returned to NS for our last night at the resort. Our dinner was not scheduled until 8 p.m., so we took yet another dip in the whirlpool and began organizing our things for departure the next morning. At about 7:30 we began walking to Ayla Restaurant, a Mediterranean-themed restaurant located in the adjacent sister-resort, Nayara Tented Camp. As we began walking we realized that the trails were quite dark given the environment, and that we had no flashlight with us. Just as we were turning around to return to our villa to get a flashlight, a resort golf cart appeared and offered to take us to the restaurant. We happily accepted and, after seeing the ups and downs of the trails to the restaurant, were glad we did. The paths were very steep at times and would have exhausted us before dinner! Our Valentine’s Day dinner was wonderful, and began with a rose on our table and a complimentary beverage. We then each ordered an appetizer (Mediterranean Salad and grillled artichoke) and our entrees (Sea Bass and grilled octopus). After our dessert of Lava Cake, we requested a golf cart to return us to our villa.
Wednesday, February 15
Today we packed and prepared to move to Bahia Pez Vela, a resort located on the Pacific coast near Playas del Coco. Before we left for the reception area to meet our driver, we had breakfast and I practiced the Bass Clarinet, both inside the villa and outside in the rain forest. The sound even attracted some birds to the surrounding trees to come listen!
Our drive to BPV took approximately 3 hours and was uneventful. We stopped at a grocery store in Coco to pick up some essentials. Upon arrival at BPV we checked in and moved our luggage into the villa (#10). As the cleaners were not yet done cleaning, we sat on the veranda, explored the nearby restaurant, and took a walk on the beach.
We made reservations at the restaurant, Maracuya Beach Club, for 7 p.m. (“Maracuya”; Maracuya means “Passion Fruit” in English). This night was “Latin Night” and included live entertainment provided by two talented musicians. We each ordered a cocktail (a Pura Vida and a Bump Fashioned). For our dinner, we ordered the Pura Vida Salad with Mahi Mahi and the “Typical Rice and Shrimps.” The food was very flavorful, colorful, and satisfying. The servers were kind and patient, and provided information about what to expect in the weeks ahead. We returned to our room for a somewhat fitful night as we got accustomed to the sound of the birds and waves outside our window.
Thursday, February 16
Today we flagged down a cab in the resort and got a ride to/from the grocery store. We ate dinner at Maracuya enjoying “Seafood pasta with Diablo spicy red sauce,” which included a generous portion of fettuccine pasta with prawns, mussels, octopus, fish, and calamari; and pan-roasted chicken breast with porcini mushroom sauce and a side of “potato gratin heart of palm”. Both meals were under $25 and very satisfying. After dinner we returned to our villa to talk with choir members from Peaceful Grove and with our son and his family.
Friday, February 17
This morning I had a cup of coffee and then went snorkeling near the rocks on the north side of the bay. I saw hundreds of fish, a large puffer fish, and probably thousands of sea urchins. I then returned to the villa to clean up (myself and the villa) for R and J’s arrival. They arrived about 9:40 a.m., at which point they got settled and we sat down for a chat on the patio. We then contacted Luis, the manager at Father Rooster’s to see if we could get a ride to his restaurant for lunch. He said “yes,” and shortly thereafter there was a car in our driveway to take us to the restaurant. At the restaurant, J and I had the Mahi Mahi burger, R had the Mahi Mahi fish and chips, and P had a quinoa salad. We then returned to the villa ($15 for the car ride both ways), chatted and swam a while, and got ready for our 5:30 dinner at the Mayacura. At Maracuya we started with a tortilla chip and dips appetizer, cocktails, and then our main course. As it was BBQ night, P and I ordered the “Turf” collection including ribs, skirt steak and sausage, while R and J ordered the “Surf” collection including shrimp, octopus, tuna, and lobster tail. We accompanied each selection with roasted vegetables and roasted corn. During dinner there was live music provided by a family band consisting of a dad (guitar and singer), son (keyboard player) and two daughters (singers). The music ranged from Spanish songs to songs by Billy Joel, Santana, and Elton John and Dua Lipa. After about 1.5 hours of music we retreated to our patio to listen to the music before retiring for the night.
Saturday, February 18
This morning we got up early and embarked on a 7 hour Palo Verde tour including a drive through sugar cane fields, an informational drive through small communities, a river tour on the Tempisque River, and a traditional Costa Rican lunch at a private residence. Our guide/driver was Gerson, a 39 year old who was very, very familiar with the area, and who provided us with very detailed information about the local flora, fauna, and communities. While on our drive to the river, we spotted a fence post on fire near a local home. So, while Gerson attempted to contact local homeowners to help put out the fire by providing water, R and I got out and dumped handfuls of dirt on the base of the fire to slow it down until water arrived. We returned to our vehicle and resumed our trip to the boat. Upon arrival at the boat, we embarked on a 1.5 hour boat ride up and down the river to look for wildlife. And, we saw plenty including white faced monkeys, numerous crocodiles, a Red Macaw, bats, numerous Iguanas, and several types of birds! It was a very successful journey.
We then returned to our vehicle to drive to a home that provided a traditional Costa Rican lunch, which included chicken, beef, rice, black beans, pico de gallo, corn tortillas, and a squash salsa. The drinks included Tamarind juice, coffee, and water, and dessert included sugar cane, cantelope, and pineapple.
We then returned to our vehicle for the slow and bumpy ride home.
Upon our return to the villa, we sat on the patio, some of us swam, and we generally relaxed from our busy day! For dinner we went to Maracuya for sushi night! The special sushi roll was very good, as was the order of six shrimp gyoza.
Sunday, February 19
Today we stayed around the villa early in the day and played Farkle. Later in the day we called a cab and went into town to eat at Santorini, a local Greek restaurant. The restaurant had an open front adjacent to the Main Street in Coco. On this particular night the atmosphere was festive as a group of approximately 40 people were celebrating a birthday within the group. I ordered pork Souvlaki with Greek potatoes, grillled vegetables and a glass of Chardonnay. P ordered Moussaka which was accompanied by the Santorini Salad, which was a typical Greek salad. P ordered a glass of Sauvignon Blanc wine.
Monday, February 20
Today involved a full-day tropical rain forest tour, which began with a stop at the Llanos de Cortez waterfall. We were the only guests at the waterfall at the time we arrived, which gave us time to swim in the pool below the waterfall and take pictures with no interference. While the water was “refreshing” (to quote our guide Randall), it was a pleasant swim and a beautiful location. The wind created mist from the waterfall which, in turn, created a rainbow that enhanced our photos!
From the waterfall we drove to the Heliconias Rainforest Lodge, a magnificent unspoiled tropical destination set in the foothills of Tenorio Volcano close to Rio Celeste in Northern Costa Rica. The lodge is located between Miravalles Volcano and Tenorio Volcano, and provides incredible biodiversity in over 73 hectares of rainforest in a protected private reserve which adjoins Tenorio Volcano National Park. The transition from the dry Pacific side of the mountains to the wet Caribbean side was dramatic as the weather and color of the terrain changed dramatically. The rainforest lived up to its name as there was drizzle to rain for most of the time we were there. We saw beautiful birds, some interesting plants, and thoroughly enjoyed the walks across the hanging bridges. After the Heliconias tour, we drove to a nearby ecological park to see frogs and sloths. In total, we saw four or so 3-toed sloths, and one 2-toed sloth. Because it was raining quite hard most of the time we were at this destination, we did not see much other wildlife as the animals were largely staying put.
After returning to our villa P and I walked down the beach to take sunset pictures, we ate dinner in the villa, and played Phase 10 Dice. Because our day tomorrow begins very early, we went to bed early.
Tuesday, February 21
Our day begin early when we were picked up by Ariel, our guide for the day, for the Monteverdi Cloud Forest and Hanging Bridges Tour. The drive took about 4 hours to get to the Selvatura Park, the provider of the butterfly, reptile and hiking area for our journey. The ride was straight, bumpy, curvy, slow, fast and every other adjective you could likely apply to a car trip.
There was construction, traffic back-ups, dogs in the middle of road, and even a chicken crossing the road. When we arrived at the park, we first embarked on the butterfly house tour. There were approximately 30 species of butterflies in the house which was warm, plant-filled, and filled with butterflies such as Owl, monarch, and other beautiful species.
After too short a time in the butterfly house, we were whisked off to the reptile and amphibian building which, while it contained many species of snakes and frogs, was not well designed or maintained with small enclosures and often dirty glass.
After we observed all the critters on display, we then embarked on the two mile hiking trail which included 8 hanging bridges. During the hike we learned about the varieties of plants found in the Cloud Forest, saw a few species of mammals including Howler Monkeys (including a baby), and a few birds. Despite the relatively small number of animals seen, the walk was fantastic! The trail was well maintained, the bridges provided an unforgettable experience over the valleys within the forest, and the scenery was unbeatable.
After concluding our walk, we climbed back in our bus for the journey to SaborTico, in Santa Elena, for lunch. I enjoyed the Chifritico while P enjoyed the Pinto Tico with scrambled egg and a frozen lemonade. Both meals were large, tasty, and excellent for the price. We then climbed back into the van and headed home arriving at about 6 p.m., nearly 12 hours after we left in the morning.
Wednesday, February 22
Today a zodiac boat picked us up from the beach at 9 a.m. and took us out to the 47’ sailboat Kuna Vela for a 1/2 day sailboat tour and beach excursion. Also on the boat were 5 Canadians from Manitoba and the Yukon Territory. We headed north under power past Coco to a beach north of the Four Seasons resort (Playa Nacascolo). On the way, we saw a school of dolphins playing with the boats in the area, including ours. Once at the beach we walked through caves exposed due to the low tide, and swam in the calm waters.
After 40 minutes or so we returned to the sailboat for rum punch, fruit, chips and dips, and sandwiches. As the wind was now to our port side, the captain was able to use the jib to take us south back to Bahia Pez Vela.
J and I decided to swim from the sailboat back to our shore rather than take the zodiac. So, as the boat arrived off the shore of BPV (much further away from shore than either of us expected; we estimate approximately 3/4 of a mile), we jumped in the water and began swimming! As the tide was going out and the current was headed south, the swim was a bit more of a challenge than one would encounter in a calm bay. We estimate the swim in took about 30 minutes. After returning to the villa the others chatted while I practiced my Bass Clarinet. We then we played games outside as we watched the day unfold over the beautiful bay in front of us. At 5:40 we headed over the Maracuya for a Latin night dinner. We began with the non-alcoholic welcome drinks offered by the resort, which included Passion fruit, lime, orange juice, mint leaves and vanilla. For food I ordered the Portena Mariscada, which includes prawns, mussels, clams, octopus, fish, calamari, garlic, butter and parsley. P ordered the Tico Casado with breaded Mahi Mahi which included rice, beans, salad, sweet plantain, corn tortilla, and breaded Mahi Mahi.
Both meals were excellent, as was the service provided by Sebastian, the restaurant worker that we believe has been working every time we’ve visited the restaurant during our stay. We then returned to the villa, read, and placed phone calls before retiring for the night.
Thursday, February 23
Today is R and J’s last full day in Costa Rica as they leave tomorrow at noon. In the meantime, as I write this our second set of guests, R2 and J2, are in the air on their way to Houston to catch their connecting flight to Liberia. They will likely arrive at the villa at approximately 2:30 pm. I went snorkeling in the morning, seeing dozens of what I think are Jack Fish, several Sargent Fish, and multiple varieties of sea plants. After my return from snorkeling, we went to Maracuya for lunch, trying their Cuban sandwich and their Mahi Mahi wrap sandwich. P and I then went to the pool, swam, relaxed, and enjoyed a Playa Verde cocktail by the pool (Hpnotiq liqueur, blue curaçao, mango juice, orange juice, and a splash of lime). UPDATE: R2 and J2 arrived after a harrowing experience at the Houston airport and begging the ground crew to tell them on the plane. They did get on and arrived at the villa at 3 p.m. We then put on our swimming suits and headed for the beach and pool. At 6 p.m. we headed to Maracuya for dinner, enjoying a Cobb salad with pinkie shrimp, seafood risotto, spare ribs, and Seafood pasta with Diablo spicy red sauce. We enjoyed great conversation and fellowship around the table. Sebastian was our server and told us that after tomorrow he would be off for the next 4 nights. We told him we’d still be here and that we’d see him when he returns. Because it had been a long day, particularly for R2 and J2, we called it a night at 8 p.m. and headed back to the villa.
Friday, February 24
Today was R and J’s last day. It began like many days with quiet time on the patio staring at the ocean. As the morning progressed, we heard howler monkeys and, eventually, saw them on the hillside to the north. There were approximately 5 – 6 of them eating in the trees. R2 and J2 went for a walk on the beach, taking time to look at the tidal pools among the rocks. R and J’s taxi arrived shortly after 11 a.m. and they departed for home. The rest of us rented an Uber to go to town for lunch at Masala, a local Indian restaurant. The food was very good and plentiful. We then walked down to Coco Beach, stopping to do a little souvenir shopping along the way. After walking along the beach we returned to the Super Compro grocery store to stock up on a few things. Although it took a while to locate a cab, we finally made our way to the villa. Because we were HOT from being in the sun in Coco, we headed directly to the pool, enjoyed a poolside cocktail, and paddled around for a while. At Maracuya for dinner I had roasted corn and 1/2 of an order of “Our Ceviche”, shared with P, who enjoyed a baked potato with her ceviche. R2 had the beef tenderloin which he proclaimed was “one of the best he’d ever eaten.” Once again, the group of family musicians entertained us during dinner. We then returned to the villa to retire for the evening.
Saturday, February 25
Today we’re off on the Palo Verde Nature Cruise with R2 and J2. Ariel picked us up in the big, new Mercedes Sprinter van and off we went. We drove pretty much directly to the center, but did stop in the village immediate adjacent to the center to, ostensibly, use the restrooms because there weren’t any at the reserve (there are). I think it was, in part, to allow us to view crafts made by the locals in the small stand within the “tourist center.” We did, by the way, buy a few things there for the grandkids. We then proceeded to the park to take a boat on the Tempisque River. We generally saw the same types of wildlife as when we took this tour on February 18, but with a couple of differences. First, instead of going up the main river we “took a left” on Rio Bolton, a narrower tributary of the Tempisque. On our earlier tour the water levels were lower as the river is heavily influenced by the tide in the nearby Pacific Ocean. This time, it was high tide so the water was much higher than the week earlier. As a result, there were no sandbars for the crocodiles so the fewer number we saw were either swimming (2) or on shore (~5). In addition, on this trip we saw many more varieties of birds. According to Ariel we saw 24 different species, including the Tiger Heron, Lesser Nighthawk, Sandpiper, Yellow-Crowned Night Heron, Black-Crowned Night Heron, Boat Billed Heron, Blue Heron, Typical Kingbird, Kingfisher, Clay-Colored Thrush, Green Heron, Great Egret, Wood Stork, and Snowy Egret. We also got a much better view of the Central American White-Faced Capuchin (i.e., the White-Faced Monkey) with them coming down near the water to within 5 feet of our boat. They put on quite a show for us!
We then left the park to go to the “restaurant” for lunch. Before lunch we were provided a potter demonstration by a local artist. The tools were simple, including a hand powered wheel made of automobile and kitchen parts. We each bought a small bowl in appreciation for the demonstration.
We had a lunch similar that a week earlier. In response to the lunch, J2 stated, “I’ve never had a lunch like this before.” She also commented that such an establishment would never be allowed in the US due to food service regulations. Probably all true, but the food was wonderful nonetheless. On our way back to the villa, we stopped at a food stand and picked up two cantelope and a watermelon.
Upon our return to the villa we cut up the fruit (some of the best pineapple we’ve ever had), went swimming for a couple of hours, watched the Mantled Howler Monkeys on the hill south of the resort, and then went to Father Rooster’s for dinner. I had the catch of the day casado-style, P and R2 enjoyed the Mahi Mahi fish and chips, and J2 had the fish sandwich. For an appetizer, we were treated to coconut shrimp, which melted in your mouth. For drinks, we had the Tico Linda, recommended by the restaurant manager, which is described as ”served frozen with Guaro Cacique, a Costa Rican liquor, orange juice, lemon juice, and grenadine.” After dinner we got a ride back to our villa, shortly after which we called it a night.
Sunday, February 26
This morning I started to pay more attention to the specific birds we’d seen at the villa, which include the White-Winged Dove, the White-Throated Magpie-Jay, Brown Pelicans, Wood Stork, and the Magnificent Frigate Bird. After everyone got up, we went for a walk around the point to the north of the villa (i.e., towards Coco) to Father Rooster’s restaurant. I ate fish and chips, P had pulled pork sliders, R2 had the fish burrito, and J2 had the coconut shrimp and fries. After lunch we walked back, exploring the tidal pools as we went. The walk to/from Father Rooster was a nice walk over the rocks, but was possible only during low tide as the rocks are under water during high tide. After we returned, I tidied up the villa for B and K’s arrival. They arrived at about 2:30, got the tour of the property, and then settled in. We then joined R2 and J2 in the pool for a swim and conversation. For dinner we ate at Maracuya, experiencing dishes featuring Mahi Mahi and other delights. After dinner we returned to the villa to play games. We then retired for the night with anticipation re: the next morning’s Heliconias tour.
Monday, February 27
This morning Randall picked us up at 7 a.m. after we enjoyed a breakfast of smoothies, rice & beans, coffee and juice. We enjoyed the same Heliconias tour described earlier. This time we again had the waterfall pool nearly to ourselves. At Heliconias, we saw numerous birds we had not seen on the earlier trip. We again enjoyed the delicious lunch of tilapia at the restaurant at the nearby Finca Verde Lodge before embarking on a tour of the property.
On the tour, as it was not raining, we saw much more wildlife than in the prior week, including multiple howler monkeys, a new frog, several new birds, and more sloths.
After the tour we returned to the van to head home, stopping at the market to pick up coffee and get cash from the ATM. Once at home we relaxed by the ocean, ate pizza from a local pizzeria (accompanied by a bottle of wine), and played games once again. I made smoothies for the next morning, and we once again retired to bed in anticipation of the next day’s walking tour of the Miravalles Volcano hot springs and waterfalls.
Tuesday, February 28
This morning Randall picked us up at 7 a.m. for the Miravalles tour. And, what a wonderful day it was! We began by driving to Poza Los Coyotes, a private area north of Liberia on the Rio Banco. Here we swam in water made blue by the particulates from the nearby volcano. We swam in two areas. The first was a stretch of river upstream from a dam made of boulders. The water was “refreshing” (as Randall would say) and deep. There were, in places, boulders you could stand on, but otherwise you were treading water or swimming all the time. We then moved to an area probably a few hundred yards below a waterfall. To swim to the waterfall you had to swim through a slot canyon. As the canyon narrowed, the current from the river and waterfall grew stronger and stronger. Through a collective effort of everyone, however, we managed to get within 10 feet or so of the lowest rapids below the falls. Again, the water was a beautiful blue, refreshing and, generally, deep.
We next drove the the Las Hornillas Volcanic Activity Center, located northeast of Liberia. Here we first got onto a wagon pulled by a tractor to ascend the volcano to view a couple of waterfalls. The first required crossing a 40-meter long hanging bridge. This bridge was located high above the waterfall, and swung quite a bit given the wind coursing down the valley through which the river traveled. Once to the other side of the bridge, we descended down a trail and series of steps to a viewing platform next to the waterfall and below, way below, the hanging bridge. It was here where we first appreciated how high the bridge actually was. This area was more rustic than many of the other hikes and bridges we had encountered on the trip, with barbed wire periodically along the path and rougher, unpaved trails. We then took a short walk back past the parked tractor to view the second waterfall. This waterfall was more easily accessed and a series of small beautiful fallls culminating in lovely blue pools.
After viewing the waterfalls we returned to the Hornillas Lodge for lunch. The lunch consisted of a choice of meat (pork chop, tilapia or chicken), rice, beans, salad, macaroni and salad with tea available for a beverage. After lunch, we were offered a vanilla and chocolate chip ice cream bar.
Following lunch we walked down to the reception area where Randall provided a tour of secondary volcanic activities of the Miravalles volcano, e.g., bubbling water pools, bubbling mud pools, fumaroles (a vent in the surface of the Earth from which hot volcanic gases and vapors are emitted), and sulphuric deposits. We then embarked upon our mud bath experience. The steps were, in order, to enter into the sauna for 5 minutes (to open your pores), slather yourself in warm mud in the mud pit (to exfoliate your skin), wait for the mud to somewhat dry, shower off the mud, and then go through a series of 3 pools of water from hot, to warm, to cold to transition back to closed pores. The experience was fun in that it was like playing in the mud, but also felt great on the skin. As we returned to the van for our return trip home, more than one adventurer stated they felt it was their best day yet!
After returning to the villla, we cleaned up and relaxed for a bit before heading over to Maracuya for R2 and J2’s last dinner before their departure for home. P had the enchilada (which was huge!), R2 and I had the red snapper in banana leaf (which was wonderful), J2 had the beef tenderloin with fries, and B had the seafood pasta with Diablo red sauce. All the meals were, again, very good. We returned to the villa, played some card games, and retired for the night.
Wednesday, March 1
This morning R2 and J2 prepared to leave for home. B and K went for a walk to explore the resort. Over night it appeared some turtles had visited the beach and perhaps laid eggs so R2, J2, P and I walked down to the beach to investigate. The tracks from the turtle(s) coming up the beach were quite evident and there was a big hole in the sand where the turtles may have laid eggs. B and K joined us after their walk and we explored the beach for a while marveling at the small snails, crabs and minnows in the tidal pools.
R2 and J2’s taxi showed up a little before 11 a.m. and they made their way to the Liberia airport. The rest of us arranged for taxi (our friend Mauricio) to pick us up and take us to town for lunch at Numu Taproom, a restaurant in Coco under common ownership and management with Maracuya. We each enjoyed a beverage (beer, wine, or Mai Tai, depending on the consumer) and several Tapas plates (i.e., the Tapchos, Croquet-Monsieur, Caprese Flatbread, and Beef Sliders with Pineapple, just a few wonderful selections from the Numu menu). After lunch we explored a few of the local grocery stores to see the differences in the prices and offerings. We then wandered down to Coco Beach, exploring a few souvenir shops and a local restaurant on the way (for a cold beverage as it was very, very hot today). We made our way back to Super Compro, the most convenient grocery store to pick up a few things, before we called Mauricio to take us back to the villa.
As we were all hot upon our return, we put on our swimsuits and jumped in the pool for an hour or so to cool off. We returned to the villa to clean up and play a few rounds of “The Mind” game before venturing back to Maracuya for a light dinner of Typical Rice and Shrimps (B), Portena Mariscada (me and K), and Calamari and spicy baby potatoes (P). The food was, as always, very good, the service excellent (Sebastien was back), and the musicians very entertaining. We then made our way back to the villa to play Five Crowns, with P being the victor for the night. We retired for the evening having spent a very busy day engaged in more local activities.
Thursday, March 2
Today the morning began with Howler Monkeys visiting the hillsides to the north of the resort. As P and I had a meeting in the morning and B had a meeting in the afternoon, today was a pretty low key day. Throughout the day we swam, snorkeled, and read. After B’s meeting we walked north around the point to get to Father Rooster’s for dinner. We sat at FR for a while enjoying a cocktail, their zucchini spread and coconut shrimp appetizers, and finally fish and chips, fish burrito, and other wonderful entrees. Luis ordered a cab to take us home, where we concluded the evening by playing games.
Friday, March 3
This morning Ariel picked us up for our Rio Celeste tour. This tour consisted of a round-trip hike of approximately 2 miles on the “Mysteries of the Tenorino Path”, a beautiful blue waterfall approximately 30 meters in height, and a beautiful blue lagoon. Like in the river in which we swam during the Heliconias tour, the waters are blue due to volcanic particulates. The area is located within the Tenorio Volcano National Park. The park is the newest of Costa Rica’s national parks, having been established only in 1995. According to the park’s website, “Located in the Guanacaste Volcanic Mountain Range, this Park is home to a rainforest that protects species of flora and fauna of regional importance. Within the area, the Tenorio volcano, with its four cones, offers natural panoramic views that allow you to appreciate the plains of the Pacific and the Caribbean.”
Because we were in a national park, no plastic bags, wrapped snacks, or other items that could create litter are allowed within the park. Further, the trails were more rugged than we had experienced in some of the private parks. In addition, to get to the waterfall, we had to navigate 256 uneven, concrete steps, both down and up. In the end, the hike was wonderful and satisfying, and the sites within the park made the trip well worth the day. While we didn’t see much wildlife in the park due to the significant number of visitors the park experiences, we did see two yellow-throated toucans in a tree next to the road, as well as a family of howler monkeys sleeping in a tree just down the road from the toucans. This was the closest viewing we had experienced of both types of animals.
After our tour in the park, we stopped in the parking lot to buy green coconuts to drink the milk, as well as some pineapple pastries for the following morning. We then returned to the van to drive to a nearby river outside the park where, if desired, we could swim again in the sky-blue waters. We chose not to swim, but did get some great pictures of the water and rapids in the river.
We then headed home with a stop at the Restaurante La Casona, a beautiful little restaurant near Rio Naranjo off highway 6 northeast of Liberia. There we ate garlic shrimp, chicken fajitas, and several other tasty dishes. The scenery from the restaurant was spectacular as we had a good view of the volcanos as well as forest and pasture land at its base. In Coco we stopped to buy mangos and bananas at a local fruit stand.
Upon returning home, we changed into our swimsuits and jumped into the pool to cool off. We then returned to the villa to get dressed for dinner, played a few card games, and walked next door for our 7 p.m. dinner reservation. We began by enjoying cocktails, the dinner rolls with passion fruit butter, and entrees including empanadas with grilled vegetables, the family seafood platter with corn, and the Choripan, which was comprised of ciabatta bread, chorizo sausage with chimichurri sauce and french fries. After dinner we listened to the delightful family band, and then returned to the villa to play card games. We then retired for the evening in preparation for B and K’s last full day in Costa Rica.
Saturday, March 4
Today we stayed around the villa, swam, played games, and went to Coco for dinner. In the morning while sitting on the patio, K and I saw three beautiful white-fronted parrots! I then went snorkeling and saw many, many long-spined sea urchins, a blue sea star, a jewel damselfish, blue devil fish, sand divers, and many other beautiful blue, striped, and angel-fish like creatures! I took a nap this afternoon while the others swam in the ocean and the pool. We then played a few rounds of “Can’t Stop” and prepared to go to dinner, compliments of our guests, at Santorini. For our dinner we chose three appetizers: Pikilia, Grilled Pikilia, and Spanakopita. The Pikilia included, among other things, a variety of traditional Greek dips, feta cheese, olives, cucumbers, falafels, and pita bread. The Grilled Pikilia included pork, lamb, Greek sausage, pork souvlaki, and french fries. After dinner and a wait for a taxi, we returned to the villa to play Kingdomino! We then retired for the evening, our guests’ last in Costa Rica.
Sunday, March 5
This morning I got up and prepared a fruit plate for everyone for breakfast. B and I wandered down to the beach to check out what had washed up during the night. I took some interesting pictures of a snail that was making its way along the beach.
We returned to the villa so B and K could pack. We then played card and dice games until their airport ride arrived. And what a ride it was! The bus was the largest we’ve seen, and significantly larger than was required for a ride for 2 to the airport! Regardless, our guests boarded the bus and headed to the airport for their flight home. P and I returned to the villa and called our brother-in-law to wish him a happy birthday and to catch up. I then took a short nap, after which we went to the pool next door for an hour or so. We then returned to the villa and prepared for our 7 p.m. dinner. P had the night’s special, roasted chicken with risotto balls, and I enjoyed the mushroom risotto. We then returned to the villa and unsuccessfully tried to find SNL or another show to watch on the TV. We then retired for the evening.
Monday, March 6
This morning I got up and read for a while, went for a walk on the beach, prepared a smoothie for breakfast, and cooked rice for future meals. I then went for another walk on the beach and returned to the villa to write yesterday’s blog entry and to read. Later in the morning P and I decided to go for a walk up the hill to see the pool at the top of the resort, the view over Ocotal Bay to the north of us, and to look at the abandoned Ocotal Beach Resort adjacent to the guard’s station of our resort.
On way returning to the villa, we stopped by the office to ask about the shuttered resort and to book a couple’s massage before our departure. As to the resort, Cesar told us it was closed unexpectedly with no explanation as to why. Based on TripAdvisor entries, it appears it was a 4-star hotel that closed in the 2016/2017 timeframe for reasons unknown. As to the massage, we scheduled it for Wednesday, March 8 on the beach. We then returned to the villa for a homemade lunch, after which I practiced the Bass Clarinet and P read. We then went for a swim in the pool. During our swim the howler monkeys were going bananas on the southern hillside adjacent to the resort, providing entertainment for the resort guests. After briefly calling the kids, we went to dinner next door enjoying the spare ribs and the beef tenderloin with mashed potatoes. Both meals were excellent! We returned to the villa to again call the kids and then retired for the evening.
Tuesday, March 7
I woke up a little later this morning, had breakfast, read, and watched the wildlife. I later went snorkeling which was very short due to a stinging sensation I experienced over most of my body while in the water. I noticed a lot of floating particles in the water, including some gelatinous red tubes. To avoid further discomfort I returned to the villa to shower off and apply Benadryl. Based on Internet research, it appears the itching was caused by things released into the water by anemones and jelly fish. During my short snorkeling excursion I did see a puffer fish and several other fish zipping around in the somewhat cloudy water. I then sat on the upper patio (a first) and read for a while, washed some clothes and the dishes, and practiced the Bass Clarinet. We next retreated to the pool for a few hours of cooling off. Dinner was next door at 6:30 and included Beef Tenderloin and Baby-Back Ribs. We then returned to the villa to play a few card games before bedtime.
Wednesday, March 8
This morning I had a cup of coffee and then headed out to snorkel. Today I got past the rocks on the right of the beach and in the process saw a moray eel, a pufferfish, a sea snake moving along on the sandy bottom, several schools of fish, and many colorful smaller fish. I returned to the villa to shower off. I then swept and sprayed down the patio for our last week of “vacation” at BPV. As I was sweeping, the electricity at the villa went off at about 9:30 a.m. Luckily we needed no electricity and were able to sit on the patio and enjoy the ocean once again. We then enjoyed a couples massage on our patio, and a lunch of peanut butter sandwiches and chips (while playing a dice game, of course). We then retreated to the pool to cool off, during which time we met the younger couple staying in Villa 11. They live in Amsterdam, she is an attorney for one or more universities, and he runs a wellness business. Electricity returned at 2 p.m. or so. At nearly 4 p.m. we returned to the villa to clean up and relax before dinner at 6:30. At Maracuya, we enjoyed the Enchilada with Chicken (perhaps the best I have eaten) and the “Tico Casado” with Caribbean style chicken. The crowd in the restaurant was smaller tonight, but the music every bit as good as prior Latin Nights at the restaurant. We then returned to the villa for the evening.
Thursday, March 9
We now begin our last week in Costa Rica. This morning I arose and had breakfast on the patio with the most unexpected guests. As I sat and ate, two vultures sat on the tree immediately in front of our villa staring at me. While it’s possible they were in search of some leftover breakfast, I couldn’t help but think of memento mori (an artistic or symbolic trope acting as a reminder of the inevitability of death). In fact, I asked P if she was planning on killing me today, to which she replied, “No, not today.” I then finished my coffee and decided nothing would better persuade the vultures that today wasn’t my time than a walk on the beach. So, I picked up my phone (i.e., camera) and headed to the sand.
The beach this morning was alive with wildlife. I took a video of a crab digging his hole on the beach (I now have proof of what makes the holes in the sand), some photos and video footage of a heron hunting for fish on the rocks, and a snail making the slow, long journey to who-knows-where. In addition, the howler monkeys were nearby in the trees to the north of our villa.
I then returned to the villla to grab my gear to go snorkeling. The snorkeling was pleasant, although the there were no great sightings. P and I enjoyed a lunch of nachos with vegetables at Maracuya, followed by a snorkeling excursion using the face mask/snorkel units found in the villa. We saw several small fish, but not the full variety as we didn’t go near the rocks due to the strength of the waves. We then lounged on the beach for a while, watched the howler monkeys as they descended to a tree right next to the beach (the closest they’ve been; there were eight of them, including a very small one), and observed a school of fish jumping above the surface of the water as they swam. The fish were an amazing sight and must have been trying to escape a predator. After returning to the villa, I practiced the Bass Clarinet. We then returned to Maracuya for dinner. We both had the evening’s special which as fettuccine with jumbo prawns in a pink sauce. It was, predictably, delicious. We then returned to the villa to play Phase 10 Dice. Unpredictably, I won!
Friday, March 10
This morning, I got up and had coffee and a breakfast consisting of mashed potatoes (leftovers) cooked with ham, cheese, onion, green pepper, and egg accompanied by two corn tortillas. I then went snorkeling along the rocks to the north of the bay. Today the water was the clearest I had yet seen. As a result, I could see much deeper along the vary large rocks to the outer edge of the banks. The fish I could now see at the deeper depth were larger. In addition, as I moved further north along the rocks, I saw more fish than I had seen along the bay side of the rocks. I estimate that, in total, I saw thousands of fish during my 40 minutes of snorkeling today. Among them I saw ~40 different species of fish, some colorful, some spiny, some large, etc. I again saw the blue sea star, this time in the open. I also got to see a fish chase and eat another fish right in front of me! Later in the morning we headed over to Father Rooster’s for lunch. Somehow, the rocks seemed more rugged than before. But, we arrived safely and enjoyed the Apple Salad and Fish Tacos (with Mahi Mahi). Luis organized a ride back to the villa for us. I took a brief nap and then we headed to the pool to read and relax for a few hours. For dinner we went to Maracuya and enjoyed the Grilled Mahi Mahi and the Hamburger with Shrimps. We danced to the music for a while and then returned to the villa to retire for the night.
Saturday, March 11
This morning started with hoots and howls from the monkeys on the south end of the beach. In addition, our neighbors in Villa 11 reported seeing a whale offshore. I practiced the Bass Clarinet in the morning, and we ate a light lunch in the villa. We were picked up by Marcelo for our snorkeling and sunset cruise at 1 p.m. and headed off the Coco to meet the catamaran on which we would spend the afternoon. The catamaran was built for tours, and was not a traditional sailing catamaran as it included a viewing deck above the main. deck. There were 21 guests on the cruise, yet it was never crowded. The decks were functional and made predominantly of fiberglass and aluminum, while having a few cushions for seating. We were brought to the catamaran by a tender and then headed north to the beach at Playa Nacascolo. In the process we were introduced to Shannon and Katrina, two Canadian women traveling together. Shannon owns a furniture store and interior design business, while Katrina manages a credit union and lives on a ranch. Both come from a rodeo background. We spent quite a bit of time talking with them over the next few hours as they were delightful companions for the day. On the way we were told about the Four Seasons resort built on the Papagayo Peninsula. The property is intended to provide minimal impact on the surrounding environment to keep it as natural as possible. In addition, the property is comprised of a traditional hotel, but also many stand-alone residences and villas. The prices range from ~$2,300 per night to more than $30,000 per night depending on the accommodations selected. When we arrived at the beach, our entertainment options for the next 90 minutes included snorkeling, swimming, stand-up paddleboarding, walking the beach, or sitting on the boat. I snorkeled and P swam while enjoying the beautiful, sunny day. Everyone then returned to the boat to enjoy snacks consisting of wrap sandwiches, pineapple, chips, and sauces, and to slowly return to Coco, enjoying the sunset along the way.
Marcelo picked us up in Coco for the drive back to the villa. Marcelo was a delightful young woman (driving a Ford crew cab pickup) with a four year old daughter and a husband. She was a great conversationalist and the discussion never lagged. We then cleaned up and went to Maracuya for dinner. P enjoyed the tres ceviche (shrimp, octopus, sea bass) dinner while I ate the Mango Cobb Salad. We chatted a bit with Sebastien and Lizette before returning to the villa for the night.
Sunday, March 12
The day began with me updating our travel log while, as usual, sitting on the patio enjoying cup of coffee. Having heard of a manta ray offshore, I next grabbed my snorkel and went out for one of my longest snorkeling outings. Today I covered not only the rocks on the left and the rocks on the right, but also the beach area in between. While I didn’t see the manta ray, I did see three puffer fish swimming together, as well as a banded pacific trumpetfish that was 2.5 – 3 feet long! We then prepared for our day-trip to Playa Hermosa, a small town just north of Coco. The town has a beach this is approximately 1 mile long which is lined with trees, restaurants, and hotels. In some ways it reminded me of Santa Teresa, although the streets were in better shape. After finding a tree on the beach for shade, we sat for a while taking in the view and played a couple of dice games. We then ate at La Casita del Marisco (the Seafood House in English). P had the breaded seafood platter which contained shrimp, Mahi Mahi, clam, and calamari accompanied by french fries and a salad. I had the grilled Mahi Mahi accompanied by mashed potatoes and vegetables. The food was very affordable and very good, which confirmed the two recommendations we had received vis-a-vis this restaurant.
While at the restaurant, it had begun to sprinkle. So, we gathered our belongings and walked the beach to see the restaurants, houses, and hotels along its border. We ultimately returned to the restaurant where we agreed to meet our cab driver. After cleaning up, we went next door to Maracuya for a light dinner. We split the enchilada and then each ordered a dessert (crème brûlée and tres leches cake). We returned to our villa to watch the Oscars. While the audio was continuous, the video left something to be desired as the screen periodically buffered making viewing the event somewhat difficult. We then retired for the evening. As a side note, this is the dry season in the area. As a result, this was the first day it had rained during our entire month at the resort. Further, it’s predicted to rain most of the week!
Monday, March 13
Today we primarily hung out at the villa, visited the office staff, swam in the pool, played dice games, ate lunch (shared the patacones with cajun and smoked cheese, served with refried beans, and a slice of passion fruit cheesecake). We then swam in the ocean and later walked the rocks to look at the tidal pools. For dinner we ate at Maracuya again, this time having the tuna poke bowl and the seafood risotto with saffron. For dessert we enjoyed the lava cake, to which we added papaya seeds from a fruit brought to our table by Sebastien (the addition was delicious, by the way). As it was the last time we would see Sebastien and Lizette, we said goodbye to them, our new Costa Rican friends.
Tuesday, March 14
Today, our last full day in Costa Rica, was much like Monday. For lunch at Maracuya today, however, we had the (veggie sandwich and Cuban sandwich, both with fries). We again swam in the pool and played dice games by the pool. For dinner we ate (guess where) the Puda Vida salad with Mahi Mahi and the nightly special, Risotto with jumbo prawns, pinky shrimp, and asparagus. We said goodbye to the remaining Maracuya staff tonight. We then returned to the villa to clean up and to pack for our journey home.
Wednesday, March 15
Our last day in Costa Rica, I arose about 6:30, enjoyed a cup of coffee while sitting on the patio, and ate a breakfast of toast, cheese and ham. After breakfast I gathered up the garbage and took it out to the street. As I was placing he garbage by the curb, I noticed Randall of Shaman Tours next door picking up our neighbors in Villas 11 & 12 for their trip to Palo Verde, the river excursion we had twice embarked upon and had recommended to them. I then returned to the villa to finish cleaning and do laundry. P and I enjoyed the patio for a while, finished packing, and greeting our taxi driver at 10:45. We had an enjoyable trip to the airport, learning about Dubai and Qatar from our driver, the part-owner of Unique Costa Rica, the company that had given airport rides to us and to most of our guests. We ate a light lunch at the airport and then boarded our plane for the uneventful flight home.
Thoughts in closing.
Did we enjoy visiting Costa Rica again? Absolutely! The beach outside our villa was beautiful, and a very good area for snorkeling. The restaurants we discovered were diverse, laid back, and provided excellent food. The people were very friendly and provided a great experience for us. Plus, the country is so diverse, from the rainforests in the center and east to the dry season in the Pacific coastal regions, we never stopped learning about the area around us, the flora, the fauna, and the culture.
We’ve been asked several questions about our trip. Here are the questions and my responses.
How did you like the “format” of the trip? We enjoyed the mix of organized tours, time at the villa, time with others, and time alone. We loved having friends/family come join us. It is much more fun to do things when you can enjoy them with others. I also really enjoyed having the time in the Arenal Volcano area before the coast. We got to see the “wet” side of the continental divide and, as a result, many of the plants and animals that thrive in that environment. While some of our other tours took us to the “rainforest,” they weren’t the same as the rainforest around Arenal. As to timing, a month is a long time, but I could at some point see spending longer away from home depending on the destination.
How did the Playas Coco region compare to Santa Teresa? The Coco area is very similar to ST, although the Coco area is within a bay so the waves are not as large. Therefore, the vibe is different in that there is little surfing. But, there are many good restaurants ranging from very laid back to more formal. One difference is that the beach at ST is much longer than any we saw in the Coco area. Plus, both are more easily explored with a car, although it was possible with some effort in the Coco area.
What did you learn about yourself? I’ve always loved photography and wildlife, and this trip reinforced that. Plus, I have also always enjoyed the water, which the snorkeling and sailboat excursions reinforced on this trip. Therefore, I need to build those into my life at the cabin more. I really enjoyed the early mornings on the patio (and there were a lot of EARLY mornings as I was having trouble sleeping past 5 – 5:30 pm). The chance to read philosophy, listen to audiobooks, and listen to nature as it awakens was wonderful! I also really enjoyed the time we spent with friends/family. Their interest in things was inspiring, as was their love of games and conversation.
What would you change, if anything? Boy, not much. Maybe we’d swap out a tour for a different tour, but all in all things went really well. I think a successful trip to Costa Rica, if you want to learn about the country, really requires staying in different biozones within the country. So, a future trip might entail time in the Arenal area (Rainforest), Monteverde area (Cloud Forest), and Pacific Coastal area (dry from late December to May). I would definitely pack a better camera and better binoculars! In an effort to save space, I compromised on these two items.
And, finally, here are some random pictures for your enjoyment! Pura Vida!
